How to Fix and Prevent Retinol Burn Before Your Big Day

Whether you’re a retinol novice or a well-seasoned user, there’s one thing we can all agree on: Retinol is an amazing ingredient for your skin (and especially for brides). It has the unique ability to fight fine lines, boost collagen, even pigmentation, fade dark spots, and even combat acne. However, there are some not-so-fun retinol side effects of this ingredient if you accidentally overuse it.

"People are eager to start a new retinol and think more is more, but that is not the case—you have to be super careful when introducing it into your skincare routine," says Dr. Shereene Idriss, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. "Overuse or incorrect use can be either using the product too often, in the wrong spots on your face, or starting off with an intense formula that is too strong for your skin. Less is more with retinols and it’s important to listen to your skin during the adjustment period."

Retinol irritation got you feeling extra sensitive? Read on for expert advice on how to rehab your skin after a retinol burn.

Signs You May Have Retinol Burn

Some symptoms of retinol burn vary by skin type and tone: "Retinol burn looks like red, scaly, itchy skin in lighter skin tones or brown/purple scaly patches in melanin-rich skin tones," says Dr. Naana Boakye, a board-certified dermatologist. Dermis that is inflamed, sore to the touch, and/or shedding are other indicators of this condition. "You could also be experiencing breakouts or inflamed acne that is not usual for your skin," adds Idriss.

These symptoms may sound vaguely similar to any skin irritation or dry dermis woes—but there is a stark difference when it comes to retinization. "With a retinol burn, skin is going to be more and more raw, more irritated, and more 'angry,' whereas other skin conditions don't necessarily have those symptoms," says Idriss. "I also think history is super important. Really think back about when you used the retinol and when your skin started becoming dry and irritated because this is where history is everything."

What Causes Retinol Burn?

Retinol burn is ultimately the result of too much of a good thing: "Retinol encourages cell division in the deepest (basal) layer of cells," explains Patterson. "Too much retinol will produce too much cell division, causing large numbers of immature cells to rise up to the surface without the proper bonds to hold them together." When too many cells rise up to the surface, the skin can start to peel, as the lipids and bonds that are needed to hold them together haven’t yet formed. Without these protective bonds, other skincare products are also able to penetrate deeper than they’re supposed to, resulting in skin sensitivity, stinging, and redness.

On the skincare spectrum, retinol naturally leans toward the more irritating—which means overuse or incorrect use can quickly lead to a negative reaction (and if you're part of the sensitive skin club, you may react faster). But there are a few key causes of retinol burn to watch out for.

• Starting retinol too quickly: Dr. Carol Eisenstat, a skincare expert and the founder of Line Eraser MD, often sees retinol burn after a patient begins using it; it's important to start slowly (try two or three times per week at first) and increase the application frequency as your skin adjusts to the ingredient.
• Using too high of a concentration: If you're applying a retinol that's too strong for your skin—which happens when you're using a product with a high concentration (like 1 percent)—retinol burn can occur.
• Applying retinol on damp skin: "Applying retinol on damp or sensitive skin can intensify its effects, increasing the likelihood of retinol burn," notes Eisenstat.
• Skipping SPF: Sunscreen should be a part of any skincare routine—but it's particularly important when retinol comes into play. Skipping this protectant could enhance retinol burn's impact, says Eisenstat, contributing to further discomfort.
• Combining retinol with exfoliants: Combining retinol with other harsh products, such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), will increase the chance of irritation, explains Eisenstat.
• Using retinol on compromised skin: Applying this ingredient to skin that is already broken or sensitized should always be avoided, says Boakye—it will only lead to a retinol burn on top of the existing problem.
  

Areas That Are Most Susceptible to Retinol Burn

While you can experience retinol burn just about anywhere on your face, especially if you apply the ingredient too heavily in a specific location, there are two key areas that are particularly prone to this type of irritation. "Retinols can be very irritating to the skin. Susceptible areas are the eyes and around the mouth," says Boakye. The skin around your eyes is thinner than the dermis on the rest of your face, she says, which is why you need to take caution when applying retinol-based eye creams. According to Eisenstat, the skin around your nose and your neck is often thinner and more delicate and should be treated with care when it comes to retinol application.

Expert-Approved Retinol Burn Treatments

Over-the-Counter Steroids

If you're experiencing retinol burn, start by paring back your pre-wedding skincare. "Cut out all exfoliating acids for risk acuity and stop using any sort of other retinol alternative," says Idriss. "If your skin is really red and angry, you could use a topical over-the-counter steroid for a few days—a few days being key, because you don't want to overuse steroids on your skin." The topical steroids will reduce the inflammation and allow the body's natural healing process to take over.

Hydrating Moisturizers

A moisturizer rich in reparative ingredients can also help speed up the healing process in the wake of a retinol burn. "I recommend using a product that is rich in lipids and ceramides to help repair the skin," shares Boayke. Another ingredient to look for in your face lotion or cream? Hyaluronic acid, adds Eisenstat. "Avoid products with harsh or active ingredients until your skin recovers," she notes.

Vaseline

Your grandmother's favorite do-it-all skincare staple does it again. "You want to protect your skin barrier," says Idriss. "Honestly, Vaseline is your best bet." Petroleum jelly, the primary ingredient in Vaseline, is an occlusive that creates a barrier on top of the skin to protect the agitated area from further irritation and keeps bacteria from getting in. While the product won't help add moisture, it will lock moisture in to support healing.

How to Prevent Retinol Burns

When it’s time to reintroduce retinol into your routine, consider starting with a lower-strength product and building up the potency (and your tolerance) gradually over time. "My number one tip is consistency over intensity," says Idriss. "Using the least intense form of retinol over weeks, months, or even years will allow your skin to adjust more seamlessly to the product and will limit irritation so skin will be nourished, firm, and at rest to receive all of the best benefits."

A good starting point is 0.3 percent retinol. Only use it twice a week at first, and slowly build your tolerance over time. You just need a thin layer (a dime-sized blob is enough for treating the face) and avoid any sensitive areas like your eyes (especially the eyelids!) and the creases around the sides of your nose, as the product tends to gather here and can worsen flaking. "If the retinol is too strong, go for a retinol ester instead. If a retinol ester is too light, go for a retinal followed by a retinoic acid and then go for a prescription," says Idriss. "You want to treat your retinols as if they are caviar—less is more. When used correctly, they help to even out pigmentation, help support collagen production, and help smooth out fine lines." 

How to Combat Retinol Side Effects

So what do you do if you’ve overdone it with retinol? Don’t panic. Be mindful that anything you use on your skin now has the ability to penetrate much deeper than usual, so try and avoid anything fragranced and look for calming products and ingredients like aloe and cica. Cica balms have been used for centuries to treat burns, cuts, irritation, and redness, so they're perfect at calming and soothing sensitized and irritated skin.

Retinol also makes your skin way more sensitive to UV rays, so it’s important to wear an SPF 50 daily and try to keep your skin out of the sun as much as possible while it heals. As for makeup, try to avoid applying it until pain and redness have reduced. When it comes to foundation and concealer, look for products with a silicone base, as they won't penetrate or react with the skin at a deeper level.

Retinol Alternatives That Have a Lower Risk of Irritation

If you've been burned by retinol—literally—or simply want a gentler option, consider other ingredients that offer similar benefits. "Bakuchiol is a fantastic alternative to retinol," says Boakye. Other actives to consider? Niacinamide or peptides, offers Eisenstat. "These can provide some of the benefits of retinol without the potential for irritation," she says.

Whether you decide to stick to retinol or try an alternative, "it's crucial to consult with a skincare professional to determine the right routine for your specific needs—especially when using potent ingredients like retinol," shares Eisenstat.